Wednesday, July 19, 2017

Doll Making: Sculpt Beautiful Hands with polymer clay - video tutorial Instant Download

Doll Making Sculpt Beautiful Hands with polymer clay video tutorial Instant Download

 Sculpt Hands






Sculpting Hands in Polymer Clay with Elena Loukianova, ODACA Artist

VIDEO CLASS instant download

What You Will Receive:

9 Video Lessons, Supplies List (PDF)



All Skill Levels

 sculpt doll hands with clay

VIDEO CLASS DESCRIPTION:
Learn to sculpt a beautiful and graceful pair of hands in Polymer clay. Elena has used this method to sculpt hundreds of hands. By following a few easy steps and instructions from Elena you will be able to make your own pair of hands, which will let you add expressiveness to your art doll.

For your convenience I put together an over 90 minute video to guide you through the steps of a making a pair of beautiful hands. There are also tips for posing the hands and attaching them to the arms. It is not only easy but also a lot of fun!


 sculpt hands tutorial


 Sculpt Hands

Happy Sculpting! Elena





Friday, March 24, 2017

OOAK Art Doll Madeline Child Doll with Teddybear

TOTAL CUTENESS! MADELINE, a one of a kind Child Doll




One of a kind art doll, made entirely by hand with polymer clay. She stands 9 inches tall, the base is 2 inches, so total height including the base is 11 inches tall. The doll can be removed from the base.

Madeline has hand painted golden-brown eyes and eyelashes. Madeline's arms can be slightly posed, since they have a wire armature inside them. She is wearing a handmade dress made with hand dyed fabrics,lace and silk ribbons. The dress is adorned with small paper flowers. The shoes are genuine leather, very soft to the touch. 

Madeline's hair is made with natural mohair in golden brown color (hand dyed) and styled into two tiny pigtails and bangs. Decorated with black silk ribbon bows. 

The teddy bear is also handmade and can be removed from Madeline's hands.

Total cuteness! More photos below:
















Many thanks for viewing! Elena



Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Sculpting Kaspar the Bohemian Poet PDF downlodable class. Sculpting a fun doll in paperclay.

Here's how Kaspar started - an armature and some clay on top.


Here he has some features sculpted. Remember he is a whimsical character, so lots of facial features are bring exaggerated. 


The head is finished. Pointy ears are completely optional! In case you want to turn him into an elf :)



Here's he has his coloring done. It is a few layer-process, showing step-by-step how to mix your colors and achieve a very smooth coverage on air dry clays like paperclay.


Here's our fella is all finished 






So if you are interested, download this 
GREAT  SCULPTING CLASS.

I  will help you along the way, you can ask me questions
and send me your progress photos!

Contact me directly via email to purchase 
or 
buy from my ETSY store (link below)!

Kaspar, the Bohemian Poet CLASS with Elena Loukianova, ODACA Artist



Thank you!






Have fun creating! Elena



Eight Paper clays and the way you can sculpt with them, is there any difference?

I have been using paper clays for a few years now and I can definitely say that one type is different from another.

There is creative paperclay, premier, LaDoll, LaDollPremix, Darwi, FIMO Air, Sculpey Air, etc.



So, what is the difference?


The major factors I "judge" my clay by are the following:

1. Strength after drying

2. Weight (when dry)

3. Sanding properties (let's face it, if you want a smooth surface, you will have to sand this typeof clay and a lot!)

4. "Feel" of the clay. What i mean by that is that some clays are easier to sculpt with than others. Some have a very slippery, kind of soapy feel to them which can be tricky when you are trying to add pieces.

5. Another factor that cannot be ignored is the "accessibility". How easy it is to find locally? Is it worth ordering online and pay extra shipping cost or can you find it at your local craft store?


So here are my thoughts:


First I would love to ask you about YOUR favorite type of air dry clay and your experience with it. Let me know what you tried, what you liked about it and what you didn't. I am sure we all would appreciate your opinion and point of view. There is so much your can learn from someone's experience. Considering it all costs money and we only want to spend money on good stuff, LOL, JUST KIDDING, experimenting is a part of learning! 
1. The most commonly used in North America and most easily found is Creative Paperclay, japanese made. It is soft, very pliable, applies very easily and not too difficult to sand. 

When sanded with an extra fine sand paper it looks and feels like porcelain. It is pretty strong after drying. Drying time depends on the thickness, but usually your creation will be 90% dry the next day or 24 hours. I find it is a bit coarse clay, especially when it dries. No matter how smoothly you think you sculpt, it requires sanding, because when it is dry there are tiny grains left on the surface, which in a way is its own charming quality. I also find that it is very easy to use because the tiny granules in clay let you “grab” it better and help your fingers not to “glide or even slide down” from the surface of the clay. I personally like it a lot.
2. One of the other very popular clays is LaDoll. Also made in Japan. Very nice, professional grade clay. It is strong and much smoother than Creative Paperclay. It sands a bit easier too. Beautiful results! You will not going to be disappointed.

3. Now, please if you have a chance, try Premier. Also made in Japan. This clay is extremely light after it dries and super bright white color. I find that it is a bit too slippery for sculpting (hands slide too much), but it you get used to it, it is totally worth it! It sands very easily and very strong after drying. The lightness of this clay, when dry cannot be compared to anything else so far! I am talking professional doll-grade quality clay. Try it, for sure. I love the finished results with it – gorgeous clay and you can’t beat the lightness of the finished and dried piece. It is more expensive than Creative Paperclay.
3. There is a mix of Premier and LaDoll clays, developed by Hannie Sarris, called LaDoll PREMIX

This is exactly it – a mix of the two clays. It is nice and strong. It is a bit heavier than Premier and a touch lighter than LaDoll. In reality, I find it is a bit closer to LaDoll by its nature. Which is a great thing. In a word – this is a wonderful, professional quality clay and it is not surprising that entire doll making community (working with air dry clays) know and praise it. It is more expensive than Creative Paperclay.
4. Sculpey Air – this is a new clay that I discovered a year or two ago and it is a great material for playing around with and actually making a professional doll with. It is pretty strong and easy to use. A little bit “soapy” for my liking and the only drawback I discovered with it so far – it is heavier than all the clays I listed above. It is also a touch cheaper than Japanese clays and because it is an American product (by Sculpey) it is readily available in almost all craft stores, including Michaels here, in North America.

5. Another one worth mentioning – DAS or PRANG (Prang bought Das clay). It is much heavier than Creative Paperclay, but sands easer. It is also suitable for making dolls, but it is not as strong as Paperclay, LaDoll, Premier and LaDoll Premix. However, if you would like to try it, it is much cheaper and a good practice for make something fun!

Let’s also clarify some things – what I call ”professional doll clay” is the clay that can handle creation of tiny parts, like doll’s fingers. It also should sand to an extremely smooth porcelain-like finish. Don’t bother with other kid’s clays from Crayola, unless you are making a projects with and for kids. My advice, if you are planning to sell your work or make it to enjoy yourself for many years – stick with the professional type clays. You won’t regret it.
There is another clay known in Europe – DARWI Classic and DARWI ROC. It is Belgium made. I have tried Darwi Classic, and found it extremely heavy! I understand it is designed for working mostly on ceramic repairs. However, there is something like DARWI Extra Light, but I haven’t seen it in North America much, so therefore I don’t have much to say about it since I haven’t used it. Darwi is mostly known to European doll makers. I assume they use it partly because it is available to them (we all use what we can find, right?).

However after trying other clays, I can definitely say there are better clays out there for doll making. At the end of the day, when you have to ship your sculpture to a client (which I do a lot and the weight of the piece is very important to me), you really don’t want it to be weighing a ton J Sorry, Darwi J Some of my students used Darwi before and like it, so again, experiment!
I also have a friend working exclusively in paperclay and Premier and who used to work with DAS in the past, mentioned to me that during transportation her figures made with DAS had breakage in the fingers and she had to repair them. I am talking about an artist who travels a lot!
Another Japanese clay is known very well to European market is Artista FORMO. I have read that it is a bit coarser clay than LaDoll. Again, I haven’t seen it here, in North America and didn’t have a chance to try it.

Also, there is FIMO Air Basic. I find it is a bit similar to DAS and Scupey Air. It is a bit heavy for my liking, but works pretty well in a tight situation J I mean if you really really really need clay and nothing else is available, you can do the work with FIMO Air, LOL.


Have fun experimenting! And I would love to hear from you about your clay experiences.








Bjd heads and eyes

The best part about working on a BJD doll head is that you get to try out different eyes. I made some fantasy glittery eyes that I couldn't help to try on my polymer clay bjd head. I know they are the wrong size but I just couldn't wait, LOL Need to make one size lager for her, these are 10 mm, my girl takes 12 mm eyes.

She still needs lots of work, but it is fun to see what she could look like. I find that extra sparkle in the eyes makes the whole doll come alive!









Friday, February 3, 2017

BJD work in progress

A few years ago I made a BJD doll with air dry clay, but I never finished her, because half way through the project I realized that there are lots of things I would like to change about her, so I stopped. She wasn't what I wanted to continue working on. Here is the photo.


Just a few short months ago, I decided to build a new one and use both polymer clay and air dry clay. I am working on both dolls at the same time. I find there are a lot of differences between the two mediums, although I am using almost the same approach. I will post my discoveries as I go. Here are the photos so far made with polymer clay.

As you can see, there is a long way to go.




Here's what I realized so far. 

1. The size of the doll I am working on is around 12-12.5 inches tall. I find it is not a very good size for polymer clay, since the arms and wrists become very small. I find that I constantly have to fortify the walls of the polymer clay pieces. Since everything gets "soft" baked at first, clay breaks under the slightest pressure. Air dry clay parts (I am using LaDoll) on the contrary is much much stronger. It is much easier to build in stages, using air dry clay, because polymer is very "capricious" medium in this sense. It attracts a lot of dust, so I have to worry about constantly washing my hands and keeping my are extremely clean. The tiniest pieces of dirt get embedded in clay very quickly and it is very difficult to get them out. The only way to get rid of them is actually by scraping them off with a blade, which, of course, create scratch marks, so you have to sand to smooth that. So overall, you do have to sand both - air dry clay (or paperclay) pieces as well as polymer.

Anyway, what I am trying so say about the size, I think using polymer clay, it is better to build a doll which is around 14 or even 14.5 inches tall, and of course, anything bigger than that. I can't stand to see the doll having thick walls and looking very "crude". After sanding, drilling and polishing the walls become nice and thin, but you do need to have a large piece to work on.  There is no problem like that, however, when working with paperclay.

2. Another thing - making the balls. On on hand Polymer clay is a bit more precise, because what you make is what you will use for the doll. There is no shrinking for polymer. Paperclay shrinks slightly and things get slightly warped. However, if you would like to make some corrections to the balls after they have been baked/dried, you can sand paperclay but not so much polymer :)  So, here you are. Some things to consider. That's not all, I will keep posting my notes on this. Cheers.